By TIM FAULKNER/ecoRI News staff
It’s corn season, so why is there so little organic corn at
farmers markets and grocery stores? Most farmers will say growing organic corn
is too time-consuming and largely unprofitable.
“I don’t think I make any money off of it,” said Dave Purpura of Plato’s
Harvest, a 3-acre organic farm in Middleboro, MA.
Purpura, like most organic farmers, grows small batches of corn
— just a half acre — and sells it at farmers markets and through a pre-paid
community-supported agriculture (CSA) program.
“Unfortunately, organic corn doesn’t work for wholesale,” he
said.
Another issue with organic corn is worms. Conventional farming
methods have eliminated the small earworm and other worms once common to corn.
Now, consumers expect flawless corn.
“People won’t accept wormy corn,” said Paul Costa, 68, a
lifelong farmer in Westport.
Like most conventional corn farmers, Costa follows an integrated
pest-management program that relies on a minimal use of sprayed pesticides to
kill worms and other threats such as leaf blight. It’s cheaper, less work and
ultimately increases corn yield, he said. “You spray as little as possible.”
Bonanno estimated that a third of Massachusetts
farmers of sweet corn use genetically modified corn called “Bt corn.” This GMO
corn reduces the need for spraying pesticides because of an insect-killing
protein produced in the kernels.
Bonanno’s estimate of Bt corn use conflicts with a report by
the Environmental Working Group (EWG) that says nearly all corn on the cob, or
sweet corn, is virtually GMO-free.
Purpura agreed with Bonanno, asserting that most conventional
corn farmers in the region use GMO corn. “As far as I know, all the stuff in
farmers markets and grocery stores is all GMO corn,” he said.
The EWG didn't respond to a request for comment.
Purpura noted that GMO corn and pesticide use come with risks,
such as harm to bees and other insects beneficial to plants, soil quality and
aquatic ecosystems. High levels of pesticides, such as the commonly used
glyphosate, have been linked to birth defects and developmental disorders in
humans. However, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), sweet
corn sprayed with pesticides has only trace amounts of residue.
Still, Bt corn contains a toxin that kills insects.
“God knows what’s in it,” Purpura.
GMO corn also has been linked to pesticide tolerant “super
weeds.” Scientists haven't thoroughly explored the implications of genetically
modified corn on human health or the environment, particularly over the long
term, according to the EWG report.
Sweet corn, the corn eaten on the cob and processed into frozen
foods, accounts for less than 1 percent of corn grown in the United States.
According to the USDA, 40 percent of U.S. corn is converted to ethanol, 37
percent becomes livestock feed, and 11 percent is made into corn syrup, corn
powders and cooking oil. Much of the rest is exported.
For some farmers, that small amount consumed during the summer
is worth growing with traditional methods. Purpura uses no pesticides and
rotates his crops to improve the soil. Growing organic corn is about meeting a
demand for wholesome food and building relationships within a community, he
said.
“Part of it is about building trust with my customers and
educating them about what it takes to grow it,” Purpura said.
He also gives his customers one reminder about his corn. “I tell
people there is going to be a worm in it. They know what to expect.”