Charlietown (a.k.a. Ninigret Wildlife Refuge) Winter Walkabout
Text and photos by James Bedell
The sun was warm
on my face, not a cloud in the sky, a little grey bird hopped alongside me, and
I could almost hear winter sigh as it was letting go of our part of the world.
It was hard to imagine that sixty years ago this same place was alive with the
sounds, smells, and deadly preparation of machines of war.
About a mile
west of the intersection of Route 2 and Route 1, the entrance to the Ninigret
Wildlife Refuge leaves the north bound lanes of Route 1. It is adjacent to Ninigret
Park which is owned by the town of Charlestown. Both were created in 1970 when the properties
were released from federal property roles.
This was my
first surprise. I had no idea that the
trail system was that extensive! As I started out, I passed the sign which
delineated what activities are and are not appropriate for a refuge. Walk, photograph, and nature watch to your
heart’s content; but NO dogs, NO biking, NO picking, No littering in the
refuge.
A separate tick warning was alongside, not to be taken lightly in our
area. But the trails are very wide and clear and there is no “pushing through”
underbrush, where the ticks are waiting for you, on these walks.
I went down the
Charlietown Runway Trail heading for Ninigret Pond. Surfaced with black top,
sometimes the remains of the old runway, other places new road material, this
trail is perfectly flat and suitable for walkers of all physical ability. As a matter of fact, long stretches of some
of the other trails are smoothly graded stone dust which also looked eminently
wheel chair friendly to me.
A few football
fields along the way you cross the main NE/SW runway and the view is extensive.
Just over the refuge border to the left is the town park and the bike/walking
track, and the runway seems to go on forever to the SW. The runways at one time were of course
perfectly flat, but here it seems the developers have sculpted the land to
create a small vernal pond and a slight hill behind it to enhance the ecological
variation.
Continuing on,
the path follows along the east edge of the runway, but there is now no runway.
Remembering what it was like in the 70’s, when the land was first released by
the feds, I am still astounded at the amount of black top which has been ripped
up and taken away. Not merely acres, but
probably square miles of material are gone.
In its place are
the native grasses and shrubs which the refuge managers now nurture and promote
along the succession of stages back to pre-military and even pre-colonial
wildness.
I noticed that the ground surface in between the plants making their
comeback is bare, sandy gravel. On this
sterile mineral material grows a covering of mosses and lichens, slowly
breaking down the tiny rock particles.
With
the help of the plants and microbes they are creating the soil for the next
stage in the evolution of this environment. In some ways today’s process is
very much as it was 10,000 years ago just after the last ice age, when life had
to re-conquer the desolate post-glacial landscape.
As I crossed the
other main runway area trending to the south I could see Block Island directly
down the airstrip. When all of this area
was cleared for plane traffic, it must have been quite dramatic, with the Block
floating on the horizon like our own little Brigadoon. Alas, now the view is slowly disappearing as
the trees grow up.
Near the end of
the runway this path leads to a half acre or so of parking which is accessible
through the town park, demarcated by large boulders arranged on the tarmac. Here
I had my second surprise.
There is a set of signs for, and a gravel drive to, a
public launch site for kayaks and canoes! I recall being disappointed when the
parks were created because there was no such opportunity in the town section. This access to the pond is sorely needed, and
it has been done right. The drive is for drop off and pick up with a small
handicapped parking area near the water. The idea is to bring the boats to the
water and then return the cars to the larger parking area, which is only a few
hundred feet away.
The launch site
is along a section of the Grassy Point Trail, and is an idyllic setting. Next
to the small sandy launch area there is a picturesque wooden foot bridge
leading to the east. It goes over the tidal flow channel to a small reed and
marsh girdled salt pond. A viewing bench adds to the scene.
Going over the
bridge, I followed the trail around its easternmost loop, up and around a
wooded peninsula. The path then brought me back to the end of the runway, where
there are things to see and trail decisions to be made.
On the blacktop surface
is a huge “30” still clearly marked…this was runway #30. A local sage shared
with me that the “30” means it was oriented at 300° on the compass. It is now
littered with the carnage of the current local bombing squadron, and the broken
shells of clams, scallops, and crabs attest to the efficacy of their tactics.
For a seagull with a tough shell between themselves and their meal, “bombs
away” is soon followed by “bon appétit”!
There is a kiosk
here with park information as well as tips on wildlife, etc. From here the main
part of Grassy Point Trail followed along the shore of a crescent shaped cove
off of Ninigret Pond. The water was crystal clear, the sun was low over the
western view down the pond, and a pair of swans flew overhead glowing gold in
the light of late day. Transfixed by the
whole scene, and hearing the soft whistle of their flight feathers swishing
through the air…I realized they were heading NORTH, and that put a smile on
this New Englander’s face.
Out at the point
there is a viewing station replete with two telescopes, benches, and an
information plaque. The point juts out into the pond and commands an unobstructed
view both east and west down the pond. Just a few weeks ago the pond was iced
over and looked like an arctic landscape. But now the sound of the crashing
surf rode the wind from the southwest over the barrier beach and across the open
pond to my ears… sounding like it was at my feet.
A great adventure
would be to kayak/canoe across the pond to the ocean side, cross the dune
barrier, and enjoy the several miles of natural ocean shore available on the
lengthy East Beach parkland.
Walking back to
the main shore I noted the tracks of two deer along the water’s edge. That was
very cool. But nearby were the tracks of a human and two dogs. That was not
cool. Signs are posted all over the trails that no dogs are allowed, yet here
they had been, and not on leashes as the tracks meandered back and forth.
That owner may
not consider their “Fido” a problem, but our dogs, a.k.a. “Canis familiaris,” are
not in the taxonomical order “Carnivore” without reason. The scents they leave
with their droppings linger a long time. “Fido” may not think he is a predator,
but the rest of the wildlife know better, and that drives them deeper into the
shrub land and further from the sight of the people who come to a wildlife
refuge to see the wildlife.
From Grassy
Point, the trail returns to the end of the runway and the parking area. On the
way back, I took a left on a wide, level path to the west and connected with
the Cross Refuge Trail. This walk weaves back and forth to the north
(eventually back to the main parking lot) through dense shrub and some young
tree stands.
The glacial landscape includes some low hills and hollows, small
ponds, and grassy open areas. Just delightful! On my late winter day, because
the trail was in slight shadow from the winter woods, the snow was still eight
inches deep. Where the snow was gone, the path was grass covered and flat,
though probably not enough to be wheelchair friendly.
From time to
time the path pops out onto a runway or other once paved area, and the refuge
staff have continued their restoration efforts on these areas. The Cross Refuge
Trail intersects The Foster Cove Loop Trail, but it’s not perfectly clear which
is which, or if they run together for a distance.
Just follow the clearly marked paths and keep
aware of where the “you are here” on the convenient map displays is in relation
to the whole refuge.
I did not go all
the way down the most western runway to the fishing access at the water, but rather
continued into the woods and Foster Cove. Marching along I had a seasonal
epiphany. Though it is chilly and sometimes wet, late winter/early spring has a
great selling point. NO bugs! Especially a little later on, right into April
and early May, we can enjoy the occasional warm day without the insect
intrusion on our outing.
The path then took
me to the shore of Foster Cove (the Willows Motel on Route 1 is at the head of
the cove). I found the ice still in
place but in decline. Like a mini polar breakup, the area near the shore was
ice free for ten feet or so, and there were melt puddles on top of large sections
of the ice surface.
The trail
touches the shore of Foster Cove in two places, one of which has a sunset
facing bench for our enjoyment. The path here is actually a causeway road from
earlier times, built up and straight. I mused that it was for perimeter patrols
at the airbase, or perhaps leading to landing lights which needed maintenance.
I did read on an information plaque that naval night flying techniques were
pioneered at this airfield.
I arrived back
at the main parking area with more than I had expected. The trails were longer
than I thought, and I was bushed. The kayak launch was a total surprise and I
looked forward to making use of it.
Also, as I took a last look down the long view of the Charlietown
runway, a faint wave of melancholia passed over me.
What was it like
during the war? I pictured oil drums, hulks of wrecked planes, with no time for
considerations of wildlife or environmental quality. I wondered how many of the
young men, who learned the art of mechanical warfare on this same blacktop,
shipped out and never returned home.
But how many
others sent into that conflict, probably a great number more, did return home
because of the skills and courage of the pilots who learned their deadly craft
here in Charlestown, R.I.
EDITOR'S NOTE: For more information about the Naval Auxiliary Air Field in Charlestown, Click here.
I drove home
picturing a scared kid from somewhere U.S.A., maybe pinned down in the open, or
out of ammunition; sure that he was at the end of his days without hope…when a
fire breathing angel of war roared down out of the heavens and gave him back
the rest of his life.
The young pilot,
probably just as scared, was living up to the motto of “Charlietown,” which is inscribed
on the memorial in the town park, “THROUGH THESE PORTALS PASS THE HOTTEST
PILOTS IN THE WORLD.”
See you on the
trail.